What are the different types of silk? How to choose the best one?
Silk, a world apart
Light, fluid, precious: silk has been fascinating for centuries. But behind this word lie in reality several types of silk and different weaves, which do not all offer the same qualities.
At Maison CÉTOILE, we chose silk for its unique softness on the skin, its timeless beauty, and its benefits for sleep.
Before choosing a silk pillowcase or pajamas, it can be useful to understand what distinguishes the different silks.
The main varieties of silk
Certain differences stem from the origin of the fiber itself.
| Type of silk | Origin | Appearance / feel | Common use | At CÉTOILE |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mulberry silk | Bombyx mori silkworm fed on mulberry leaves | Very smooth, uniform, shiny | Lingerie, bedding, haute couture | ✅ Yes |
| Tussah silk (wild silk) | Silkworms living in the wild | Thicker fiber, beige color, irregular texture | Scarves, artisanal textiles | ❌ No |
| Raw silk | Thread retaining part of the cocoon | More raw and matte texture | Structured clothing, decoration | ❌ No |
Mulberry silk is currently the most widely used in high-end textiles because its fibers are longer, more uniform, and particularly soft.
The main silk weaves
Once the fiber is produced, the silk can be woven in different ways.
The weave influences the appearance and feel of the fabric.
| Weave | Characteristics | Common use |
|---|---|---|
| Silk satin (charmeuse) | Very smooth and shiny on the front, matte on the back | Pillowcases, lingerie, pajamas |
| Silk twill | Diagonal weave that is more structured and resistant | Silk squares, scarves |
| Habotai | Light and fine fabric | Linings, scarves |
Textiles intended for direct contact with the skin, such as pillowcases or pajamas, are often made of silk satin (charmeuse) to obtain a particularly soft and fluid surface.
What is the best silk?
Everything depends on the use, but for textiles worn or used during the night, the standard remains:
Mulberry silk woven into silk satin.
Quality also depends on the fabric thickness, measured in momme.
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22 momme: dense and durable silk, ideal for sleepwear
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19 momme: balance between lightness and resistance
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16 momme: thinner, suitable for certain light pieces
The type of silk and the momme are two essential criteria, but the cut, finishes, and intended use also count. To learn more about these different criteria, consult our guide to choosing silk pajamas.
Why we chose mulberry silk
At Maison CÉTOILE, we exclusively use OEKO-TEX® certified mulberry silk, recognized for its softness and uniformity.
We select weights adapted to each use:
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22 momme for pajamas and certain accessories
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19 or 16 momme for double-sided pillowcases
-
a hand-rolled hem for silk scarves
Each piece is designed to offer a sensation of lasting comfort, night after night.
How to recognize quality silk?
A few simple benchmarks can help.
Light
Natural silk reflects light in a subtle and changing way, never like plastic.
Touch
The surface is soft and fluid, without any synthetic feel.
Momme
The fabric weight indicates its density: below 16 momme, durability may be more limited.
In summary
The quality of silk depends mainly on:
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the origin of the fiber (mulberry silk being the finest and most uniform)
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the weaving of the fabric (satin, twill, etc.)
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its thickness measured in momme
For textiles intended for sleep, the most appreciated combination remains mulberry silk woven into silk satin, recognized for its softness and fluidity.
Want to try silk?
→ Discover our silk pillowcases
→ Explore Maison CÉTOILE silk pajamas here
